Ah the joy of a blank page!
In the last two blogs I’ve had a certain structure around which I built my prose – namely our experiences in Myanmar, and our work at the school.
Today I have a remit as free as the bowels of an incontinence sufferer who’s just chewed through a packet of laxatives.
I thought it might be a good thing if I gave you some verbal photographs – some snapshots of the India we are experiencing and some character sketches of the key people who are a part of our story here.
First of all, since it is gushing in the window as I write…let me tell you about THE FOG. At the bottom of the blog you can see two pictures of a school assembly. One with fog, one without. Even though a picture speaks a thousand words…you’d need reams and reams and infinite typewriters staffed with infinite monkeys endowed with the literary capacities of Proust and Chaucer to do justice in words to the nature of this fog. At its worst, you cannot see 5m in front of you…today it’s at about 70%, with a visibility of about 10m. It’s the kind of fog that can hide things so well, it’d be no surprise to find lurking within it the progeny of a warped union between the Hound of the Baskervilles and a Yeti – the result would be a being so gruesome, the only way to describe it is to ask you to imagine what the result would be if John Terry copulated with a woolly mamouth…and then the genes of that offspring were spliced with a rabid donkey (this being according to Fan is otherwise known as Fabricio Collocini). Pretty Horrific no? Well if they made a horror film starring this Wild Woolly Donkerry…the only fog that would be fit to cloak it, and add menace to the overall film would be the fog of India’s Bread Basket.
The Fog is so thick, it actually pours in through the window in a way that seems for all the world like Ravy Davy’s disco is outside and the smoke machine is pointing directly at your window.
That’s enough on the fog and John Terry’s beast-demon children.
Now…let us appreciate human alarm clocks.
If Fan and I could understand old Punjabi, we’d both by now be fluent in certain parts of the holy text of the Sikh religion - the Guru Garant Sahib. Every morning at anywhere between 5-7am we are woken by the speaker-amplified voice of the Babaji of the nearest Gurudwara (sikh temple). The tradition appears to be that every morning at dawn and every evening at sunset, the Babajis (Sikh priests) of the Village Gurudwara recite aloud passages from the holy book. Just in case anyone was in danger of not hearing and being grateful for this service, the Babaji’s words are broadcast at significant decibels for all to hear. Escape is utterly impossible. The land here is so flat, that the words from one Gurudwara sail over the fields and merge with the words from another, setting up a resonant frequency that morphs into a standing wave and decimates all heathens in its path…ok, so I made the last bit up…but sometimes it can get a little much.
Most of the time it’s all good. The sound kind of merges into the background noise of trucks and buses unnecessarily blaring their horns, labourers shouting at each other when normal volume conversation would suffice and groups of dogs barking and whining as they rape some unfortunate bitch or attack some stray that happens to have wondered into the wrong urine demarcated territory.
At other times however, it’s sufficient to say that if this blog wasn’t being monitored by the powers that be, I’d write something along the lines of ‘it’s enough to make you want to take some C4 to the f**king speaker system’ … especially if it’s Sunday, and you’ve no reason to get up…and fancy actually sleeping until at least 7.30am!!
On the flip side, if there were no Gurudwaras and no Babajis, there might not be any Prasad, which would be a definite wounder to someone with a tooth as sweet (and spiritual) as mine. Prasad at its best is a skilfully combined mix of sugar, flour and ghee. It’s like eating a mixture of warm gooey nougat mixed with a type baby food I used to like as a child. Any mothers/children out there remember Milupa 7 Cereal breakfast? That stuff was awesome! I actually only stopped eating it when, as an 11 year old, I let peer pressure convince me it might be a good idea to switch to conventional Kellogs cereals. Thus began a wonderful relationship with Coco-Pops…but that’s another story.
Incidentally, I don’t believe Milupa 7 Cereal is any longer in production. If I am wrong, and you know where to get hold of some, please do buy me a couple of packets and I’ll drop by when we land back in the UK with the necessary reimbursement and a very grateful heart (and tummy).
Animals…
Make a lot of noise. Especially the parrots and the dogs…and some bird which is yet to be identified, but which makes a noise like a dying banshee most nights around 11pm.
As soon as it gets properly dark, the dogs seem to begin a contest of ‘I bet I can bark louder than you…bet you can’t…you call that a bark…this is a bark!!!’ and so on.
At least the parrots are fairly quiet after dark. Around sunset though, they compete with the Babajis of the Gurudwara for the attention of our ears. Their squawk can be genuinely ear-splitting, especially if they happen to swoop low overhead. It is rumoured the Japanese B-movie makers took inspiration from the parrots of India when they were searching for a suitable sound for Godzilla’s roar.
Yesterday I saw a crow stealing a chapatti from a dog. I have a particular affinity for crows, so I was mightily pleased. If you’ve not seen it yet, google a video called ‘the intelligence of crows’. It’s badass. Also on the topic of animal videos, ‘The Honey Badger’ and ‘Hippo in the House’ are also well worth seeing…as are many of the videos of Caplin Rouse – formerly the world’s only domesticated capybara. Capybaras are awesome…and if anyone knows how to (legally) acquire one as a pet, my siblings and I would dearly like to know.
They have Capybaras at Bristol Zoo. When we were last there we the keeper informed us that he hoped the capybaras would soon mate. My sister Clare, ever the go-getting type, said, ‘oh that’s fantastic, can we leave you a number so that when the babies arrive you can call us so we can come and collect one.’
The zoo keeper, not quite sure she was joking (she wasn’t) and not wanting to sound too dismissive replied, ‘errr…it doesn’t quite work like that.’
Back to Indian animals…One of the least pleasant types of animal in this region is often known as a husband. The husbands in question appear to live in the nearby village and do absolutely F**k all…with a capital F – that is unless one counts as ‘doing something’; drinking, playing cards, lying on a bed in the sun and occasionally coughing and spitting your guts up while either shitting and pissing by the side of the road or sneering at someone who may actually be trying to do something with their lives. To top of the peerless qualities of this animal, they are content to let their wives and daughters work their knuckles bare either in the field or at home…and still expect supper and sex to be served on demand.
Gaze vs Gays…
This was one of those moments the uber politically correct will say I shouldn’t have laughed at…but it was such an innocent mistake…complete with accompanying actions that I could not help but share the laughter of the moment. Here is the context:
Earlier today I was covering a period of 8th Standard English. We were running through any words that were unknown to them in a story about a mountain that looks like a stone face. In the story a mother and child were ‘gazing up at the venerable face’. I paused the reading of the story to check that the students understood the meaning of ‘gazing’, whereupon one hand shot up and said ‘yes sir…like this sir?’
The boy in question then proceeded to slip his arm around his classmate and smile at him suggestively. I think it was the credulity of his body language that did it, and the confidence he had in his definition…I’m afraid to say yours truly cracked up, before heading to the blackboard to correct the misunderstanding of gays vs gaze. Given the amount and volume of laughter which accompanied my latter explanation, I can at least rest assured that this is one linguistic pitfall none of the students will be falling into again any time soon.
Cast of characters:
Saudagar/Sodagar…
There are certain things that can happen only in India. Saudagar is our Indian father. Sodagar is also Gilly’s cousing and the Managing Director of the school. There are no typos. SURELY one would have one’s name spelt the same way on your passport and your birth certificate? Not in India. Saudagar is Sodagar…depending on which identification document you are looking at.
The man who owns the name has done nothing to shake the impression I first had of him – namely that he has the spirit of an absolute warrior. In time this impression has been fleshed out by coming to know that what I had thought was a slightly control freakish nature was simply him being seriously dedicated to my well being…and a tiny bit of a control freak. He is one of the most dedicated and caring people I have ever had the privilege of knowing. He is constantly busy, not least because he has to manage the demanding life of a farmer with the now more demanding life of school managing director, but also because he has the kind of determined, generous heart that guarantees most people with any kind of serious issue will come to Sodagar for help in solving it. Such issues may range from the resolution of violent disputes – like the recent incident in which two villagers got into a drunken argument with some people from another village and managed to nearly hack one of their arms off with a sword – or disputes of a more ridiculously stupid nature – like helping the guy who shot himself in the foot to make his case for being the victim of assault a little more believable.
I’m not joking…or using a clichéd metaphor. He actually did shoot himself in the foot. Can you imagine the thought process?! ‘I know…I bet the judge’ll really believe me if I shoot half my foot off. What a fantastic idea! My foot will grow back, and I’ll be laughing all the way to bank with the compensation money.’
You could understand it if the situation in anyway resembled Escape to Victory, where the main goalkeeper allows Michael Caine to deliberately break his arm so that Sly Stallone can play in goal and lead the escape operation. There’s taking one for the team…and then there’s being so greedy for the equivalent of about 100 quid that you cripple yourself for life with no guarantee of actually getting the cash.
Sodagar’s warrior spirit feels similar to the water that carved the Grand Canyon. It is soft, soft soft, and yet utterly unstoppable. It is probably helped by a temprament that can be about as patient as Tigger on speed. Not in any quick-to-anger way, but more in a way where the urge is to make a decision now, so that immediate action can be taken. On occasions this can mean offence is taken where none is intended, or a road is taken where there is a significant blockage to be navigated. Without doubt though Sodagar is someone it is a blessing to have on you side…and someone I consider myself seriously lucky to know.
Three days later:
I am currently in the process of coming to terms with the fact that I may be witnessing the last legs of my Mac’s original harddrive. As a result, I’ve been a little distracted from writing up all I wanted to in this blog. I’ll pick up the cast of characters in our next instalment.
For now, let me just update you on what we’ve been doing over the Christmas period. The winter term ended on Christmas eve with a Christmas celebration at the school. There were no less than 3 santas, a real white covering on the ground and a whole school rendition of the Hokey Kokey – which we appropriated as a carol in order to avoid having to sing.
I was entrusted with telling the story of Christmas…and I summarily managed to forget that Jesus was born in Nazareth…in fact, I might as well include the unabridged version for your delight/horror at the end of this blog.
Christmas day for us was the first day of the 4 day sports camp we are running. Initially we despaired at how we could keep 20 odd kids entertained and coached successfully without chaos reigning. Fan has been forced to over exert herself…meaning she is being an absolute star…enduring, courtesy of her back problem, the kind of pain that laughs at childbirth or being kicked in the balls.
Three days into the camp, however, there is at least a reward for Fan’s efforts. We are starting to see definite improvement in both the standard of football and volleyball. We also tried out handball today, and this was met with much enthusiasm…probably as it required slightly less technical proficiency than the ultimate Frisbee we had been playing as a warm up game on each of the preceding days.
Tomorrow we will have a day of tournaments – football, volleyball and handball – using the handmade goals we have made together with the students. True they do need guy ropes to ensure they are solid and sufficiently right-angled to serve purpose…but they are made by the students own fair hands, and so are priceless gems.
We are currently house-sitting for our Indian parents, so have the pleasure of being able to watch the majority of the Xmas premier league football program – allowing us to feel very at home…especially when munching on some English chocolate received courtesy of a Christmas care package from my family. Mmm…chocolate…
Enjoy this fairly unique take on the nativity…
Until next time. Xx
The Story of Christmas
Once upon a time, so we are told, there was a good woman whose name was Mary.
She lived with her husband Joseph who was a carpenter.
One day an angel visited Mary and told her she did not need to know anything about the biology of the Human reproductive system, since God had chosen to give her a child with out any of the usual formalities.
Mary and Joseph were very happy. God told Mary that she should call the child Jesus. It is possible that Mary had wanted to call the child by another name…but when God tells you to do something, it’s usually a good idea to obey.
Meanwhile, there was a King whose name was Herod. His astrologers predicted that a child would be born who would become much greater than the king.
The King’s ego did not like this one bit, so he instructed his soldiers to travel throughout the land and kill every newborn baby.
Luckily, Jesus had not yet been born and Mary managed to hide the fact that she was in a family way.
After some months, very close to the time when Mary was due to give birth to Jesus, a census was announced and all people had to return to their place of birth to be counted.
Since Joseph was born in the town of Nazareth, Joseph and Mary had to travel many miles on a donkey to reach the town. When they arrived at the town all the accommodation had been taken by people arriving for the census. There were no rooms to spare.
In desperation, Mary and Joseph asked the owner of one of the guesthouses if they could stay in the stable with the animals. The owner was reluctant to agree, but seeing Mary in a family way, he agreed.
In another part of the land, there were 3 wise men. When they heard the prediction from the king’s astrologers they said to each other, ‘we should go and visit this child who will grow into such a great person’. They did not know where the child would be born, but luckily an angel came and spoke to them and said, ‘follow the star, it will lead you to the child.’
It so happened that an amazingly bright star began shining over the stable in which Joseph and Mary were staying, so the wise men easily knew in which direction to travel.
The wise men had nearly arrived when Jesus was born. There was no bed for Mary to lie upon, so Jesus was born in the manger of the stable. A manger is a trough from which the animals eat their food.
At the same time as Jesus was being born, an angel visited some shepherds in the fields. She told them that the person who would save their nation was being born in the town. The shepherds were very afraid, for they had never seen an angel. The angel told them not to be afraid…and that they should follow the star in the sky, which would take them to the child.
Both the shepherds and the wise men brought gifts for the baby Jesus. The wise men brought gold, frankincense and myrrh. The shepherds brought a lamb. It is for this reason that Jesus has the nickname ‘the lamb of God’.
It is said that all the animals knew Jesus was a special child, so they kept quiet and made no noise when he was sleeping.
Jesus grew into the founder of the Christian religion…and it is said by some scholars that he received his spiritual training from wise gurus in Northern India and Kashmir…
The story of Jesus is called the Nativity. It is a very popular play for children to perform at Christmas time.
This story is also remembered by the singing of Christian Bhajans called Carols.
Carol singing is one of the most popular activities at Christmas time, and groups of friends will travel round their towns and villages knocking on the doors of their neighbours and singing carols together.
Over time other religious traditions and folk stories have influenced the celebration of Christmas…and some have become an established part of the Christmas festival. Two of the most well known are Father Christmas and the giving of presents, and the decoration of the Christmas tree.
The decoration of the Christmas tree is a tradition taken from the ancient Northern European religions who worship nature. At Christmas time, which they call the Winter Solstice, or Yule, they sing songs about the trees, the sun and the moon, and decorate pine trees as a way of saying thank-you for the gifts of food and fuel which nature provides.
The giving of presents and the story of Father Christmas comes from the Lapp people of Finland and Scandinavia. You may have seen pictures of Father Christmas, who is traditionally dressed in a red and white jacket and trousers, with a red hat and a long white beard.
This costume is actually based on a type of red and white mushroom named Amanita Muscaria. It is believed to be poisonous, but if prepared correctly it can become a powerful medicine.
In days of old, the tribal elders of the Lapp people would consume the mushroom and would use its medicine to help them heal people and discover information about the weather and the crops. For this reason people felt the mushroom was giving gifts to the community.
Over time, this story has developed into the story of Father Christmas. Parents tell young children that if there are well behaved throughout the year, then on the night of Christmas eve, Father Christmas, who travels on a magical sleigh pulled by reindeer, will visit them and leave them a gift while they are sleeping.
It is said that on the night of Christmas eve, which is the night before Christmas day, Father Christmas visits every child in the world to give them a gift. And who knows…today is Christmas eve, and maybe he will even visit GMMCS.
One sadness is that as the world has become more and more modern, and TV has become more and more influential, Christmas, like Diwali, has become more and more about shopping and spending money. The real traditions and meanings are being forgotten as businesses try to make money and make you believe you are less of a person if you do not buy their products and spend crazy amounts of money just so you can look generous.
As we close this tale of Christmas, perhaps it is best to remember the gift of the shepherds to the baby jesus. They were simple folk who had little, but they gave what they had with a loving and grateful heart. Even when we have nothing, we can still give someone a loving smile…and that may be the best present they could receive.
Merry Christmas